Buy any Miata on condition and documentation, never on mileage alone - these engines routinely pass 200,000 miles, so a rusty low-mile car is worth less than a solid high-mile one.
Work through this checklist on every viewing:
- Structure first: Inspect frame rails, rocker panels, sills, and rear subframe mounting points for rust and prior repair. This is pass/fail on NA and NB.
- Engine: Cold-start it yourself. Listen for timing-belt-area rattle on NA/NB and cam-cover ticking. All Miata engines are non-interference, but a neglected belt still strands you.
- Short-nose crank (early 1.8, 1994 to mid-1995): Confirm the crank pulley is tight and the bolt re-torqued or upgraded.
- Cooling: Check for a clean radiator, no oil-water mixing, and a healthy fan. Overheating warps these alloy heads.
- Transmission and diff: Notchy-when-cold is normal; grinding into second is not. Confirm the diff type - a Torsen or viscous LSD is worth chasing.
- Soft top: Check the rear window, seams, and for water in the footwells.
- Suspension: Bounce-test for dead dampers and listen for clunks from worn bushings and ball joints.
- Paperwork: Timing-belt receipt (NA/NB), service history, clean title, matching VIN.
Walk away from any car with structural rust, an overheating history, or a milky dipstick. A tired soft top, worn bushings, or cosmetic wear are all cheap, expected fixes - do not overpay to avoid them, but do not let them scare you off a solid chassis.